Gritty and traditional, but also a mirror of contemporary Hong Kong, the Kowloon heartlands of Yau Ma Tei and Jordan are at their buzzing, idiosyncratic best as night falls. Visit a century-old fruit market for a blend of hilarious urban tales and exotic fruits. Soak in the lights and sounds at Temple Street market and sashay into an old-school singing parlour that only lives on in this part of town. You'll also get the chance to have your fortune told under a banyan tree before we cap off the night with more local food delights.